When I was in Florence in Erasmus most of my friends were actually from Sicily. So Maria, my flatmate and I, decided we should fly there during our Easter Holidays and visit the island. We stayed two days in Palermo, took a bus to Taormina where we stayed other two days, then we drove to Catania, for one day only (too less), and then we split, as Maria was starting her classes before, and I went alone to Agriggento for one day and back to Palermo for two other days. This post is just about the city capital, four days in Palermo 🙂 It was an amazing gastronomic / norman architecture trip, Sicily is another world, it’s completely different from the north of Italy and it’s really nice but also chaotic!
Day 1:
We flew from Pisa to Palermo with Ryanair and stayed with the best friend of one of our friends, as they were not spending easter holidays at home. As we arrived very early we started our day at Vucciria market to have breakfast – Pane, panelle e crocchè, typical street food, the best you can get! It is a bread with fried chickpea flour and fried potatoes, you have to eat it! In the morning we were being guided by Sofia, our friend. She showed us the area next to Porta Felice, one of the ends of Corso Vittorio Emanuelle, the “decumanus” of the city – the gulf of Palermo, the port of la Calaand some important buildings like the Loggiato di San Bartolomeo and San Domenico church.
Then she had to go to university so we continued alone. The first stop was at Quattro Canti, the crossroad between Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, the “cardus”, where in every corner there’s a beautiful fountain. We went then to Via Maqueda to visit Teatro Massimo, the third biggest in Europe after Vienna and Paris. Unfortunately we couldn’t visit this one, but just some meters further there’s another square with Teatro Politeama, where we could go in – the workers actually thought we were very nice and let us in 😉 Palermo’s architecture is very influenced by the north of Africa, the arabs and it is very nice to see it, not just because you feel you are not in Italy anymore, but also because it made me feel a bit at home again, as we have this influence also in Portugal. We had lunch in a very typical palermitan place next to the theaters, where people who work in the neighborhood go eat at lunch but unfortunately I don’t remember the name. But if you go to Palermo and get one of those Use It Maps you will find the place!
In the afternoon we went to Piazza Pretoria and the Fountain of Shame (in the guides it’s written that is called shamed because all the statues are naked between two monasteries… others say there’s a corridor under the fountain used by the nuns of one monastery and the friars of the other to meet and… :P) Just across Palazzo Pretorio there’s Piazza Bellini with the beautiful church of San Cataldo with its three red domes and Chiesa della Martorana. This is the church of the albanians who live in Palermo and though it is now a catholic church, the mass has some ortodox influences. We continued walking the big avenue, always looking for the cannoli, the amazing sicilian sweets we already knew from Ará, the sicilian shop in Florence, until Porta Nuova, the other end of Corso Vittorio Emanuelle. On the way we visited the Cathedral, majestic on the outside, just nice inside. Outside, in the cathedral square there’s the Santa Rosalia chariot – each 15th July there’s a procession of Santa Rosalia and they change the chariot, which stays in Piazza Cattedrale waiting one year for the next chariot.
At the end of the day we met Sofia and some of her friends at Ballarò Market, where we finally ate cannoli <3 On the way back home we still visited the Church of Gesù, also known as Casa Professa
Day 2: The night before, when we were at home a friend from Florence wrote me saying that she was also in Palermo and that we should meet! Luckily she had the exact plans as we: going to Mondello beach and visit the cathedral of Monreale, a mountain village 8km souther from Palermo.
To go to Mondello you can take the bus N12 in Via Cavour Next to Teatro Massimo and takes about 40min. The beach was amazing, a little paradise, white sand, the beautiful mediterranean sea, the Montepellegrino on the right, the Charleston restaurant in the middle of the water! We spent some time at the beach, enjoyed the sun and then we walked to Piazza Mondello to have lunch – Arancini, the typical rice balls from Sicily!
We took the bus back to Palermo and then we walked to Porta Nuova where we took the bus to Monreale (I guess there are a lot of ways to go there, just check with locals what’s the best, it was we have done). Getting up we can have a look to the whole Conca d’Oro, the valley where Palermo is. Monreale is really nice, not just the amazing church but also the streets around it, you should definitely go there!

At the evening we went to Taberna Azzurra, the oldest place in Vucciria, where we drunk a glass of Sangue, the “Moscatel” from here, it was a great environment! 🙂

Day 3: Back in Palermo, after Taormina, Catania and Agriggento, I visited the church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti, a norman one, again with the typical red domes. It is called a church but it is more like a ruin right now. Then the Royal Palace, just next to it, and its Palatine Chapel, with amazing gold details, all this morning a must do!
For lunch I went to the Antica Focacceria San Francesco, on the other side of the city, a tourist point where street food is sell inside. I had an arancina alla norma and pane, panelle e crocchè again. The next day I returned there to eat a peace of setteveli, a cake with seven layers of chocolate, amazing 🙂 But they sell everything: sfincione (sicilian pizza), setteveli cake, cassata, arancine, panelle and crocché… On the afternoon I went to the Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo, which wasn’t a church for long, being afterwards the first public theatre of Palermo, a leper hospital, then a warehouse for works of art saved from the bombings and now being a stage for concerts. As I was in this side of the city I visited the Orto Botanico, a beautiful garden with beautiful sculptures and little buildings like Villa Giulia. Then a nice walk by the sea and the walls of the city, the advantages of slow travels, where you can actually stop and enjoy the city!
When I got back to Palermo, Sofia, the friend who host us in the beginning wasn’t there anymore so I stayed with a very nice couchsurfer in Via Roma just for a night! Thank you Antonio for your hospitality!
Day 4: On my last day I visited the catacombs, which I thought it was a “city” underground, but what I found was a lot of preserved corpses (some were that good preserved that seemed they were just sleeping)! A bit creepy but worth seeing. I couldn’t leave Palermo without going to the top of the cathedral, which has a very nice view, and it is the only place I know from where you can have a look of the city from above. Next step, the church of the Quattro Canti, the crossroad of Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, a beautiful church with a lot of details. And finally, Palazzo Abatellis, the Regional Art Gallery of Sicilia, designed by the architect Carlo Scarpa. My flight was leaving on that day so I went to the airport to take my flight back to Pisa. The airport is very nicely located, just next to the mountains and during the flight I could see Sardegna and Corse, which was also interesting!

Summary:

Day 1: Vucciria market, Porta Felice, the gulf of Palermo, the port of la Cala, Loggiato di San Bartolomeo and San Domenico church. Quattro Canti, Teatro Massimo, Teatro Politeama, Piazza Pretoria, San Cataldo, Chiesa della Martorana, Porta Nuova, the cathedral. Ballarò Market, Casa Professa.

Day 2: Mondello beachMonreale, Taberna Azzurra

Day 3: church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti, Royal Palace, Palatine Chapel, Antica Focacceria San Francesco, Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo, Orto Botanico, walls of the city

Day 4: catacombs, top of the cathedral, church of the Quattro Canti, Palazzo Abatellis

*Must see in bold